Ottawa Citizen  |  Saturday, September 11, 1999

"Take the Thai Woman's advice"

by Laura Robin

For years, hordes of hungry Ottawa adult students learned to cook Thai from the skilled instruction of Montha McGinnis. The Thai woman (I know my last name doesn't sound Thai -- I married a Canadian") taughtThai cooking through the Ottawa Board of Education. Her following - and the number the people who could turn out dynamite Pad Thai - grew steadily.

But now, it's almost too easy, You can have all of Ms. McGinnis's specialties, made by the master herself, just by picking up the phone. In November, 1996, Ms. McGinnis took over the tasteful royal-blue-and-white Siam Bistro on Wellington Street near Holand Avenue. The dine-in crowd only got larger, and more loyal, at the already popular restaurant. But what's really grown over the past few years is the take-home service.

"I'd say one quarter of our business is take-home now," says Ms. McGinnis. "I think it's growing because people are starting to know Tbai food and know that it's good to take home too.We get alot of calls from people who work at Tunney's Pasture, who stop by on their way home from work to pick up dinner. Or sometimes people will just pick up a couple of dishes to add to a mcal for a special occasion."

And, really, when the fall skies turn grey and cold, what could be more satisfying than a rich, creamy, spicy bowl of Tom Kha Gai (Hot and Sour Chicken Soup with Coconut Milk, Lemon Grass, Fresh Mushrooms and Thai Ginger), possibly eaten on your couch, on a Friday night, in front of a video?

Or, on a sultry, September night, forget the frying pan, forget the barbecue, and just pick up a cool, spicy seafood salad with lime, or perhaps some salays on sticks, with a creamy, spicy peanut sauce.

All 75 sweet, sour, salty and spicy dishes on the Siam Bistro's dine-in menu are also available for take-home. And that can actually cause a bit of a conundrum.

When you're in the restaurant with a crowd, it's fun to order a table full of little dishes and enjoy the balance of some spicy, some sweet, some hot and some sour dishes, But if it's take-home for one or two, it can be more tricky to figure out just the right one or two dishes. Several times (I don"t necessarily learn quickly), I've ordered No 16, the Barbecued Beef Marinated in Minced Coriander Roots, Garlic and Lime Juice, and been disappointed. It's delicious, but it's just slices of beef. What I really wanted, it turns out, is the No. l5 - Thinly sliced Barbecued Beef Mixed with Fresh Mint, Chillies, Shallots and Lime Juice.

I learned this by going to restaurant with my 13-member book club recently and sampling about a dozen different dishes. But there is a more direct way - just ask Ms. McGinnis.

"For take-home, I recommend the No. 37 (Red Curry with Chicken or Beef, Coconut Milk and Peanuts). It's even better the next day. Or the No. 32 (Light Chicken Curry with Coc6nut Milk).

"Then you want some vegetables, so I'd recommend the No. 42A (Chicken with Cashew Nuts and Dried Chilies). Others that are very popuIar are the No. 52 (Pad Thai, or Fried Rice Noodles with Shrimp, Eggs, Peanuts and Bean Sprouts) and No. 40 (Marinated Chichen Wrapped in Pandanus Leaves, Served with Sesame Dipping Sauce.)."

It's almost too easy. Just Call 613 728-3111. The Siam Bistro is at 1268 Wellington St.